Himalaya Fall 2014: The Season is Over

It has been a long, and often difficult, fall season in the Himalaya, where poor weather, unstable conditions, and challenging routes have made for a less than successful year in the big mountains. While I was away in Ecuador, the last remaining teams wrapped up their expeditions, and the season has come to a close at last. But before we close the book on another year in the Himalaya, I wanted to post a couple of updates on things that took place over the past couple of week.

Before I departed for South America, we were watching Lhotse closely, waiting for new from the South Korean team that has been struggling for two very long months to make progress on that mountain. In the first week of November, the team set off on a summit push, installing Camp 4, and hoping to move to the top of the 8516 meter (27,940 ft) peak. According to ExWeb, the climbers reached as high as 7800 meters (25,590 ft) before they were once again turned back by high winds and poor conditions. One of the team members was also said to be in deteriorating health as well, which eventually forced the abandonment of the entire project.

One other expedition that had been ongoing was the attempt by Canadian climbers Jason Kruk and Ian Welsted to summit Nuptse along the South Face. The duo spent four days on their summit push, but were forced to turn back after encountering conditions that prevented them from reaching the top. Later, Welsted feinted on the trail and had to be airlifted out to safety. He seems to be in good condition, and all is well, but it did put a scare into Kruk for a time. The episode took place on November 3, and was the result of fatigue after living above 5000 meters (16,404 ft) for five weeks. The boys are home now, and doing much better.

This report brings a wrap to the 2014 fall Himalaya climbing season, and now all eyes will turn towards the spring, when Everest will sure dominate the scene once again. Considering how unusual the past few seasons have been on the Big Hill, I suspect we will not lack for drama once again in 2015.

Himalaya Fall 2014: Brits Depart Makalu Base Camp, First Ascent in the Indian Himalaya

As the fall climbing season in the Himalaya slowly grinds to a halt, we continue to receive a few updates from the mountains. At this point, there are only a matter of days left before the season begins to shift, but there are still a few bits of news to share.

First up, the British Tri-Services team posted a dispatch from Makalu indicating that they have now departed Base Camp on the Southeast Ridge, and are making their way back to Kathmandu. They report that poor weather continues to be the norm, with heavy snow, and rain, making it challenging to trek through the mountains once again. They are still a few days away from KTM, and the porters carrying their gear are a couple of days behind the climbers, but they expect that they should be on their way back to the U.K. by next week.

A few weeks back, the Slovenian team of Aleš Česen, Luka Lindič and Marko Prezelj became the first men to climb a new route on Hagshu, a 6657 meter (21,840 ft) peak in the Indian Himalaya. The team completed the climb in alpine style, first making the ascent of the North Face, then traversing the mountain to the main summit. While that was the main objective of the expedition, the trio first acclimatized on two other nearby peaks, making first ascents on both Lagan (5750 m/18,865 ft) and Hana's Men (6300 m/20,669 ft). It is safe to say that this was a successful expedition, considering they made first ascents on three peaks, and did all of them in light alpine style. Well done, and congratulations to the team.

Finally, there continues to be no word from Lhotse on the progress of the Korean Team. A few days back we received word that they were heading up to Camp 4, where they intended to stash gear in preparation for a summit push to come. Since then, there have been no updates, but presumably everything is going according to plan. The team has been on Lhotse for nearly two months now, and have faced bad weather and avalanches almost since the day they arrived. But time is running short now, and if they intend to make a summit bid, it will have to come soon. Hopefully we'll get an update over the weekend.

Various reports continue to indicate that the weather has been poor in the Himalaya once again. It has been a tough season there, and not an entirely successful one. Hopefully things will improve in the spring, when more teams head to the mountains, and Everest becomes a hive of activity.

More updates coming soon, as warranted.

Himalaya Fall 2014: Korean Lhotse Team Prepares For Summit Push

While only one team remains on an 8000-meter peak in the Himalaya this fall, the season isn't quite over yet. The Korean squad on Lhotse continues to battle poor weather, and unstable conditions, in an attempt to reach the summit on that mountain. The clock is ticking however, and after nearly two months in the Himalaya, time is starting to run out. With that in mind, the team is in the final stages of their preparation, with the hopes of summit bid to come.

Information on the team's current status has been hard to come by in recent days, but according to ExWeb, the Korean climbers set off up the mountain once again today with the hopes of establishing Camp 4 at 8200 meters (26,902 ft). This will be their final camp on the mountain, and will serve as their launching pad for the summit. It is unclear whether or not they'll attempt to go straight to the top, or will instead descend back to Base Camp, and wait for a proper weather window.

Considering the length of time they have been on the mountain (they arrived in the first week of September), and the patience that they have shown thus far, it seems likely that they will wait for the proper window to allow themselves the best opportunity of topping out. That said, temperatures have begun to drop across the region, and Lhotse has reportedly gotten much colder following the recent blizzard brought on by cyclone Hudhud.

Avalanches remain a concern as well, as they have all season long. The team has already faced several significant slides, and have been extremely careful in their approach so far. They could find even more unstable snow as they move up above C4.

Meanwhile, Canadian climbers Jason Kruk and Ian Welsted are still in the Himalaya as well, and attempting to summit Nuptse, the 7861 meter (25,791 ft) peak located in the Khumbu Valley, not far from Everest itself. A few days back, Kruk posted to his Facebook page that they duo were taking one last crack at the summit along the South Face before they pack up camp and head home. If everything is going according to plan, they should top out sometime over the next few days, but we'll have to wait for a new dispatch to report on their success.

The fall climbing season is nearly over, and in a few days, I'm sure we'll be wrapping up the last of these reports. It has been a strange autumn in the Himalaya to say the least, but there were some good success stories, most notably on Manaslu and Cho Oyu. Hopefully we'll have a few more summits to add to the list by this weekend. Stay tuned.

Update: In other Himalayan news, climbers Mick Fowler and Paul Ramadan have completed a new route along the Northeast Face of Hagshu, a 6515 meter (21,374 ft) peak in the Indian Himalaya. The mountain had been previously climbed back in 1989, but despite several attempts, has remained unclimbed ever since. 

Himalaya Fall 2014: Season Ends on Makalu

Just a brief update from the Himalaya today, where we have received word that the British Tri-Services team has canceled their summit bid, and are now preparing to depart the mountain. It seems conditions on the upper slopes above Camp 4 were too dicey, and the team is exhausted from their efforts. They have retreated back to Base Camp, and are now preparing to head home.

The squad was expected to launch a summit push today, with the hope of topping out sometime over the next three days. The weather on the mountain is said to be very good following last week's storm, and according to yesterday's dispatch, the team was feeling fine and optimistic. Unfortunately, it seems that as they went higher, the discovered that the route to the top along the Southeast Ridge was not as stable as they would like. This is a long, and exposed, path, which would have been extremely difficult, even when conditions are good.

According to their most recent dispatch, the team has now been working the mountain for seven straight days, and are physically wore down. Typically, they could retreat to BC and rest for a few days before giving it a go, but the men are on a bit of a tight schedule, and there is no longer any time left for another summit push. With bad weather expected to arrive once again this weekend, the group made the decision to pull the plug, and go home.


Staying on Makalu, but jumping over to the Northwest side of the mountain, we have finally gotten confirmation from the Madison Mountaineering team that they to abandoned their summit bid. They launched their attempt to reach the top last weekend, and while there were rumors that they had turned back amidst poor conditions, those are now confirmed with the team's latest dispatch as well.

Apparently, they made it as far as  Camp 2 at 6858 meters (22,500 ft) before deciding to turn back. At that point, they discovered deep snow deposited by the recent blizzard, that was just too unstable, and nearly impassable as well. They immediately descended back to BC, and are now preparing to depart for home.

It has been a tough fall in the Himalaya. There was some early success on Cho Oyu and Makalu amongst commercial teams, but both Shishapangma and Makalu have proven too tough to crack. The Korean team is still working on Lhotse, but they have been on that mountain for nearly two months, and have struggled to make meaningful progress. Their last report indicated they were hoping to install Camp 4, and prepare for a summit push, but it is unclear if they have accomplished that task. Still, they are a persistent bunch, and until they say the expedition is over, we'll keep monitoring their progress and hope for the best.

It now appears that the fall season is just about over. Soon, everyone's attention will turn towards preparing for the spring, and a return to Everest.

Himalaya Fall 2014: Summit Bid Underway on Makalu, New Rules for Trekking in Nepal

The fall climbing season in Nepal is rapidly coming to a close, and as such, teams are making final preparations for their summit bids, particularly on Makalu. Meanwhile, in the aftermath of that massive blizzard that claimed the lives of more than 40 people in the Himalaya last week, the Ministry of Tourism has announced new regulations designed to help keep trekkers safer in the mountains.

We'll start today on Makalu, where the British Tri-Service team has put a team of climbers in place high on the mountain with the hope of reaching the summit as early as tomorrow. Climbing along the very long, and difficult, Southeast Ridge the designated 4-man summit team has now reached Camp 4, where they are currently resting before setting off for the top tomorrow morning. The weather forecast indicates three good days ahead, and they hope to take advantage of that open window if possible. The team is reportedly in good spirits, and fine health, and expectations are riding high as they begin the final stages of the expedition. A support team is standing by to lend aid should the summiteers need it, but they are anticipating a good approach to the top of the mountain. Heavy snows may have created unstable conditions however, and break trail to the top could be exhausting and time consuming. Still, they are ready to proceed in alpine style above C4. Watch for more updates over the next few days.

There is still no word from the Madison Mountaineering team, which was also attempting Makalu along the Northwest side of the mountain. They launched a summit bid last Saturday, but have not posted any status updates since. There have been some rumors that indicate that they were turned back high on the mountain due to unstable conditions, but we have not received confirmation of that at this point.


Over on Lhotse, the Korean team is back in Base Camp after another rotation up the mountain. Conditions on the mountain continue to be challenging, but they are forging ahead with their plans. There are no indications of when the team will launch its summit bid, but they have been on Lhotse for weeks now, with slow progress being made. Fortunately, the squad seems very patient, as they wait for their opportunity.

Finally, in the wake of the disastrous blizzard that swept through the Himalaya last week, Nepal has announced some changes to help protect trekkers visiting the country. They have once again reiterated that all hikers will need to be accompanied by a local guide, which is something that they have said in the past, but seem to not enforce all that tightly. Representatives from the Ministry of Tourism have also said that trekkers will be required to carry GPS tracking devices, which will make them easier to locate should another emergency situation arrive. Furthermore, the government is promising better weather forecasts to help more accurately report conditions prior to trekking groups setting off. All of these efforts are designed to keep travelers safer of course, while continuing to allow access to the best trekking routes the country has to offer.

Anything that helps make the experience safer is, of course, a good thing. It is important to acknowledge that this was a freak and unexpected storm, and while I'm sure there were some poor choices made on the parts of guides and trekkers, the blizzard that hit the Himalaya last week was not in any way typical for this time of year. Still, these moves will hopefully ensure a safer environment traveling in Nepal. The country has seen its share of tragedy this year, and its tourism industry could take a hit because of it. That would be a shame however, as the country is beautiful, accommodating, and filled with wonderful adventures.

That's all for today. More to come from Makalu in the next day or two.

Himalaya Fall 2014: Nepal Ends Search For Missing Trekkers, Summit Bids Begin on Makalu

It was another busy weekend in the Himalaya, but sadly for all the wrong reasons. Search and rescue teams spend the past couple of days sweeping through the mountains in search of missing trekkers who were caught out in that horrific blizzard that struck Nepal last week. The weather has improved considerably since then, but a number of people are still missing, and feared dead, in what has become the worst tragedy in the history of the Himalaya.

Efforts to locate missing trekkers and locals were continuing today, even though the SAR teams have started to scale back their efforts. All told, more than 40 people lost their lives in the storm, while 600 had to be rescued. Most of those were in the Annapurna region, where the storm seemed to hit the hardest.

Over the weekend, the popular Annapurna Circuit was shut down, while rescue efforts were conducted. When it was finally opened again, new trekkers, just setting out on their hike, ran into trouble as well, and had to be evacuated. This prompted officials to shutdown the trail once again, in order to keep others from becoming stranded.

As recently as today, ongoing avalanches have hampered efforts to locate those who are still missing. Despite those challenges however, a search team located the body of a missing Israeli traveler, which brought the death toll to 40, with others still to be found.


Typically this time of year we focus on the climbing efforts in Nepal, as mountaineers take advantage of the good weather that follows the summer monsoons. But trekkers arrive in high numbers in the autumn too, as it is usually the best time of year for hiking in the region as well. This freak snow storm caught many off guard, including the locals who live in the mountain. This type of blizzard isn't common, even in the winter, and it arrived with so much speed and ferocity, that its strength was underestimated, which is why so many people ended up stranded and dead.

Elsewhere, the climbing teams that remain in Nepal are continuing to press ahead. The British Tri-Services team is now in place at Camp 3 on Makalu, and are preparing for the final push to the summit in the next couple of days. They'll use C3 as a launching pad for what will now become an alpine style ascent. The weather is reportedly very good, and is expected to remain that way throughout the week, giving them the best opportunity to summit that they've seen yet this season. Four members of the team will be on the move tomorrow, with the hope that they can top out by Wednesday or Thursday, depending on how quickly they can make progress along the long, and difficult Southeast Ridge.

On the other side of the mountain, the Madison Mountaineering team launched their summit bid on Saturday, but reportedly were forced to turn back due to high risks of avalanche along their route. The team has not updated its dispatches in a couple of days however, so these reports are unconfirmed at this point. Typically, if they did abandon the attempt, they would be back in Base Camp by now, and would have sent a dispatch confirming their plans. Hopefully all is well, and we'll get an update on their progress soon.

Finally, there has not been any significant updates from the Korean team on Lhotse in the past few days. The last we heard, they were preparing to push up to C3 and establish their camp at that point on the mountain. They have most likely waited out the storm as well, and will be back on the move over the next couple of days, but progress has been slow all season. Hopefully we'll get an update soon.

That's all for today. It seems then worst of the crisis has passed, although conditions remain dicey throughout the region. Hopefully there will be  no more deaths due to the poor weather, and both trekkers and mountaineers will return safely from their adventures.

Himalaya Fall 2014: British Team Preps For Summit Push on Makalu

It was a busy weekend on Makalu for the British Tri-services team. The squad spent the past few days finishing their prep work on the mountain, and are now gearing up for a summit attempt to come later this week. But poor weather has hit the mountain, and could delay those efforts, with heavy snow in the forecast.

The team descended off the upper slopes of Makalu yesterday, and are currently resting in Base Camp while they regain their strength, and wait for a weather window to open. A storm has brought fresh snow to the mountain, shrouding the summit in clouds, and burying the fixed ropes above Camp 1. As a result, the men have been huddling in their mess tent, enjoying hot cups of coffee and tea, while they wait to see just when they'll be able to launch their summit bid. They'll be using bottled oxygen above C4 at 7500 meters (24,606 ft), so they've also been using the time to practice with those systems, and to get accustomed to carrying the load.

If the poor weather passes as expected, the team expects to head back up to Camp 1 tomorrow or Wednesday. From there, they'll start the first real attempt on the summit, with snow conditions dictating their progress. Fresh snow will make breaking trail much more difficult, and slow down the climb, so the squad is hoping that they're just catching the edge of the storm, and it won't deposit too much snow on the mountain. Currently however, the conditions are bad enough that a trekking team on its way to Baruntse is sharing BC with the Brits, as the storm is strong enough to prevent them from hiking the trail.

The Madison Mountaineering team is also on Makalu, and their forecast for the coming days isn't very optimistic. They've just returned from their second rotation on the mountain, and now have their high camps stocked and ready for a summit push as well. They are climbing the standard route up the Northwest Ridge, which is quite a distanced from the Brits, but the weather is similar, and is expected to deteriorate further tomorrow. According to their latest dispatch, the team expects to receive a foot of snow per day through Wednesday, which will certainly have an impact on the schedule, and create a challenge when the climbers get back on the move.

Finally, there has been no update from the Korean team on Lhotse since last week. Their last dispatch indicated that they were working on completing Camp 3, and were holding out for better weather, which they've seen little of so far this season. Other than that, there has been no indication of their current status, nor when they plan to make a summit push of their own. We'll just have to wait to see how things unfold.

That is about all there is to report from the Himalaya to start this week. More news at it is warranted.

Himalaya Fall 2014: Progress on Lhotse and Makalu

The fall climbing season in the Himalaya is starting to draw to a close. Most of the commercial teams have wrapped up operations for the year, and have now started for home. It has been a successful autumn on Cho Oyu and Manaslu, while Shishapangma has shut out all attempts thus far. But there are still a few teams still in the mountains, and they are continuing to make progress on their intended routes.

We'll start today with the Korean squad that is attempting the South Face of Lhotse. The team has faced poor weather almost from the time they touched down in Kathmandu, but they continue to press ahead with their efforts none the less. Progress has been slow this season, but they are making the best of the situation. According to their most recent dispatch, they have now established Camp 2 at 6800 meters (22,309 ft), and they are working on constructing Camp 3 at 7500 meters (24,606 ft), although that has been a real struggle so far. The team is said to be in good spirits however, and the forecast is for improved conditions in the future. Hopefully this will allow them to push towards the summit in the days ahead.

Meanwhile, over on Makalu, the British tri-service team is back in BC for a much needed rest. They've been working the route along the Southeast Ridge for several weeks now, and have Camp 2 firmly in place at 6700 meters (21,981 ft). The squad spend several days there earlier in the week, and have now descended to recuperate and gain their strength. The plan is to begin shuttling more gear up the mountain over the next few days, and they are now eyeing a summit bid sometime after October 15.



Yesterday, a helicopter delivered some fresh supplies, including a new generator. Their previous model had been giving them problems, so they requested another one. This should provide the power they need to post dispatches more regularly.

The Madison Mountaineering team is also on Makalu, and have been making good progress since they switched routes over to the Northwest Ridge. Earlier in the week, they established C2 on that side of the mountain at 6464 meters (21,210 ft). According to their most recent dispatch, the weather has been good over the past few days. They expected to go up to Camp 3 yesterday, and then descend back to BC tomorrow for a rest. After that, they'll be looking for a good weather window to go for the summit as well.

Chris Jensen Burke has wrapped up her Cho Oyu expedition with a successful summit last weekend. She's now on her way home, but has started to post her thoughts on the climb. You can read the first part of her recap by clicking here. As usual, she provides good insights into what it is like to climb an 8000-meter peak, sharing her own personal experiences quite nicely. Definitely a good read for those who want to know more about these big peaks.

Finally, Bo Belvedere Christensen is pulled the plug on his attempt of Shishapangma. He had hoped to bag a second 8000-meter peak this fall, after successfully summiting Cho Oyu last week. But, as we've heard from a number of teams throughout the course of the season, the snow on Shisha is incredibly deep this year, and it has created unstable conditions, ripe for avalanches, near the summit. He'll now return home as well.

That's all for now. I'll continue to post updates as they are warranted.

Himalaya Fall 2014: Summits on Cho Oyu, Teams Abandon Shishapangma

More news from the Himalaya today, as reports of success on Cho Oyu trickle in as expected. But over on Shishapangma, some teams are calling it quits due to safety concerns, while others arrive on that mountain seeking their second 8000-meter peak of the season.

As expected, the commercial teams that launched summit bids on Cho Oyu topped out amidst good weather this morning. Winds were light and visibility was high on top of the mountain, affording the summiteers great views of Nepal and Tibet, as well as surrounding mountains, including Everest and Lhotse. The latest dispatch from IMG says they team put two guides, seven climbers, and six Sherpas on the summit. Everyone is in good shape, and descending back to C2 today.

The Adventure Consultants summited a few hours behind the IMG team, but had similar results. They managed to put eight Sherpas, two guides, and six climbers on the summit, although by the time they topped out, the winds were starting to pick up a bit more, and clouds were beginning to move in as well. They are all on the descent now too, after spending a half hour on top of Cho Oyu.

Congratulations to all of the climbers who topped out on Cho Oyu. Get down safely.

The news isn't as good from Shishapangma, where ExWeb is reporting that some teams are now abandoning the mountain due to poor weather and unsafe conditions. Following the avalanche that claimed two lives last week, climbers on Shisha have reevaluated the situation there, and most have elected to go home rather than risk their safety. This includes 75-year old Carlos Soria, who had been as high as Camp 2, and even as late as yesterday was working to continue his acclimatization efforts. It appears that the mountain is simply too unstable for safe climbing this fall, and the risks of avalanche on the high slopes are too great.


Not everyone has given up on a Shisha summit this season however. After topping out on Cho Oyu earlier in the week, Bo Belvedere Christensen is now headed to Shishapangma in an attempt to claim a second 8000 meter peak in a relatively short span of time. Whether or not he'll change his mind once he surveys the mountain remains to be seen. ExWeb reports that Ivan Braun, a climber from Denmark, will be attempting the same feat.

Elsewhere in the Himalaya, the Korean team on Lhotse reports slow progress due to continued poor weather. They have reportedly finished stocking Camp 2, and are working to establish C3 at the moment, with the hopes of pushing up to C4 sometime within the next week or so. The team is counting on a change of weather soon, so they can begin planning the summit push, but at the moment, conditions remain difficult.

It turns out that the British military team won't be alone on Makalu this fall. They've been joined in Base Camp by a team led by Garret Madison of Madison Mountaineering. The squad only just arrived in BC this week, and have spent the past few days making acclimatization hikes throughout the region. They should start moving up the mountain within a few days however, so expect to hear more about their efforts as well. Garret is coming off a successful K2 expedition this summer, and will now lead this team in Nepal.

That's it for this Himalayan update. The season is already starting to wind down, and while there are still teams to follow, some of the bigger commercial squads are already preparing to head home. I'll continue to post updates as the news warrants it however, as there are still some exciting expeditions taking place.

Himalaya Fall 2014: Teams on the Move

It was a fairly active weekend in the Himalaya, where the commercial teams continue to acclimatize in preparation for eventual summit bids. For the most part, things are going according to plan, and while we're still a couple of weeks away from the first major pushes of the season, each day brings the climbers closer to their goal.

We'll start on Makalu, where the British military team reached Base Camp yesterday at long last. It took them 8 days of trekking from the time they left Kathmandu, until they arrived in BC. Now, they are taking a few days to get settled before they'll move up the sloes to Camp 1, and begin their acclimatization process. Over the next few weeks, they'll establish several high camps while they let their bodies become accustomed to the altitude, before launching a tough, alpine-style push to the summit along the very difficult Southeast Ridge. This will be one of the more fascinating expeditions to watch this fall, and it should be interesting to see if they can pull of this big climb.

Over on Manaslu, the teams are starting to talk summit bids. According to the Altitude Junkies, the Sherpas fixed the ropes to just below Camp 4 on Friday, clearing the way for the teams to start planning for their final push. The weather will dictate exactly when that will happen, but if a good window comes in the next few days, we could see the climbers on the move shortly.

On Cho Oyu, the Adventure Consultants have checked in with a regular progress report. The team is in the middle of another acclimatization rotation, and will spend tonight at Camp 2 before heading back down to BC. Sadly, two members of the team were forced to head home after experiencing some health issues. This is not uncommon on expeditions to the big mountains, but it is always a sad to hear that someone has to abandon their dream of climbing in the Himalaya.


75-year old Carlos Soria is attempting Cho Oyu this fall, and he arrived in BC last week. After attending his Puja ceremony, Sora's team has been acclimatizing on some of the smaller mountains near by, while they wait for a chance to move up and start the process of climbing their intended peak. They should get that opportunity in the next few days.

ExWeb is reporting that the Korean team climbing Lhotse this fall had a close encounter with an Avalanche. They were fixing rope between Camp 1 and 2, at around 6200 meters (20,340 ft) when the avalanche struck. Fortunately, no one was injured, and it turned out to be yet another challenge for the  Koreans to overcome. The team has faced poor weather the entire time they have been in Base Camp, but they continue to move upwards, despite the conditions.

Finally, the Double8 team is getting ready to launch their second attempt on Shishapangma. The trio of Benedikt Böhm,Sebastian Haag, and Andrea Zambaldi took a shot at the summit last week, but heavy snow high on the peak turned them back. After spending the weekend resting in Base Camp, they're ready to go again. They'll launch their second bid today with the hopes of a speed attempt to the summit, and a ski descent back to BC. If successful, they'll then get on their mountain bikes, and ride for approximately 100 miles (160 km) to Cho Oyu Base Camp, where they'll then attempt another speed climb, and ski descent. Their aim is to knock off two 8000 meter peaks in just seven days. I'll keep you posted on their progress.

More updates to come over the next few days. The teams are truly on the move now, but summit bids are not really in the cards just yet. Stay tuned however, as it won't be long now.

Himalaya Fall 2014: Ueli on Shishapangma, Double8 Expedition Set To Begin

The fall 2014 Himalayan climbing season is now in full swing, with most teams either already in Base Camp, or well on their way. For many, the acclimatization process has begun, and the first steps towards reaching the summit have been taken. But there remains a lot of work to be done, and autumn hasn't even officially arrived just yet.

We'll start today on Shishapangma, where Swiss climbing legend Ueli Steck has checked in. Ueli has returned to a peak that he has already climbed in record time (10.5 hours!) to give it another go, this time climbing with his wife Nicole. As usual,  Ueli's dispatches are short, and to the point, so few details have been shared on their progress so far. I'm sure we'll get more updates in the days ahead, and something tells me this won't be another speed attempt this season.

75-year old Carlos Soria is on Shishapangma as well, and earlier today his team completed its Puj ceremony. That means the they are free to begin climbing the mountain, and will probably begin their first rotation up to Camp 1 tomorrow as well. Carlos is going for his 12th 8000-meter peak, which is an impressive accomplishment at any age.

The countdown on the Double8 expedition website says the team is expected to launch their speed attempt on Shishapangma tomorrow. According to their latest dispatch, the team of  Benedikt Böhm, Sebastian Haag, and Andrea Zambaldi have been above 7000 meters on three occasions, and have spent the night in Camp 3. That means that they are acclimatized and ready to go for the summit, provided the weather cooperates. They report that there is lots of snow high on the mountain, which has made for slow, exhausting progress. But, if everything goes as planned, they'll launch their speed attempt tomorrow. If successful, they'll then descend back to BC, and mountain bike and trail run to Cho Oyu, which they also hope to summit in a fast and light style. The ultimate goal? Two 8000-meter peaks in just seven days.


Speaking of Cho Oyu, the commercial teams on that mountain have wrapped up their first acclimatization rotations. Both the Adventure Consultants and IMG teams have been up to Camp 1, and report that all is well. Progress has been sure and steady, and the squads are now happy to descend back to Advanced Base Camp for some rest. The fixed ropes are now in place up to Camp 2, so they'll probably start back up the mountain this weekend. Daily afternoon snow showers are common, but for the most part the weather is good.

Chris Jensen Burke is on her way to join the teams on Cho Oyu. She reached Tingri Village two days back, and spent some time acclimatizing there before moving higher. She is expected to arrive in BC today however, and will proceed immediately up to ABC, with a possible stop over at an interim camp to help with the adjustment to the altitude. Chris is fresh off a successful summit of K2 this summer, and is eager to add yet another 8000-meter peak to her resume.

ExWeb reports that the Korean team on Lhotse has made progress as well. Bad weather had kept them in Base Camp, but the skies cleared long enough for the team to move up to C1 and establish their first camp on the mountain. They are climbing along the South Face of course, sharing the same route to the summit of Everest up to Camp 3.

Over on Manaslu, the Altitude Junkies have returned to BC after spending a night at both Camp 1 and Camp 2. They report that light snow buried their fixed ropes, but they were able to proceed up none the less. The team is splitting the rope fixing duties with the Himex squad, and as of their dispatch, that work was completed to just below Camp 3. Poor weather forced the Sherpas to turn back from that point, although they are expected to return in another day or two to complete the work.

Finally, the British military team heading to Makalu is now en route to Base Camp. They are expected to reach that point on Saturday, when they'll begin their climb at long last. Their attempt on the long, and very difficult, Southeast Ridge will be interesting to follow, as the final approach will be done in alpine style along a route that is 15 km (9.3 miles) in length. This will be one of the more challenging climbs of the year, and it will be quite an accomplishment if they can pull it off.

That's all for now. I'll have another progress report soon.

Himalaya Fall 2014: More Arrivals in Kathmandu and Base Camps

It has been a busy few days in the Himalaya, where after a slow start to the fall season, teams are now on the move at long last. Over the past few days, a number of squads have settled into Base Camp, with some even starting their first rotation up their respective mountains. Meanwhile, back in Kathmandu, climbers continue to arrive on the scene, setting the stage for what promises to be an interesting fall throughout the region.

We'll start this update on Lhotse, where a lone Korean team arrived in BC last week. ExWeb says that they endured the remnants of the monsoon while trekking through the Khumbu Valley, and had soggy first few days. But they have completed their Puja ceremony – the ritual in which climbers as for permission from the mountain to climb – and are now waiting for conditions to improve before proceeding up.

75-year old Carlos Soria is freshly arrived in Nepal, and is still in Kathmandu. The Spaniard will be heading out to Shishapangma soon, where he'll begin his attempt to climb is 12th 8000-meter peak. For now, he is content to do some last minute shopping in the capital city, and rest up for the trek ahead, but he plans to leave for the mountain in the next few days.

The trio of Benedikt Bohm, Sebastian Haag and Andrea Zambaldi – collectively known as the Double 8 Team – will also be heading to Shishapangma soon. They estimate that their climb will get underway the middle of next week. They have ambitious plans for the fall, as they first intend to climb Shisha, then run and mountain bike to Cho Oyu, and summit that mountain as well, all within about a 7 day time span. First they'll need to acclimatize of course, but once they are ready, the intend to make the climb in a fast and light alpine style. It should be interesting to see how their journey unfolds in the weeks ahead.


ExWeb is also reporting that a team of Slovak ski-mountianeers are preparing to set out for Dhaulagiri soon. The climbers are just arriving in Kathmandu now, and are organizing logistics for the expedition, but will leave for the 8167 meter (26,795 ft) mountain in the next few days.

Jumping over to Manaslu, things are proceeding as expected. The Altitude Junkies report that ropes have been fixed all the way to Camp 2, and the Sherpas from their team, along with Himex, have begun shuttling gear and supplies up to that point. The climbers have also started their first rotation on the mountain, having spent some time in Camp 1 already. With the acclimatization process underway, and the weather cooperating so far, the expedition remains on schedule. Manaslu is reportedly very quiet this fall as compared to recent years, as more teams have crossed the border into Tibet and attempting Cho Oyu instead.

Speaking of Cho Oyu, the Adventure Consultants have checked in from that mountain and report that progress is being made there as well. The teams have now gone as high as Advanced Base Camp as part of their early acclimatization process as well. Reportedly, everyone is still getting settled in BC, and the communications tent hasn't been set up just yet. Once it is completed over the next day or two, we can expect more consistent updates from the mountain.

Finally, there is a familiar name heading to Cho Oyu soon. Aussie climber Chris Jensen Burke is back in Kathmandu and planning to head out to Base Camp soon. Chris is fresh off a K2 summit in July, and eager to add another 8000-meter peak to her already impressive resume. She says that she briefly considered climbing Shishapangma this fall as well, but decided that was too ambitious of a task considering the other things on her agenda. So, before heading to Ama Dablam later this fall, she'll knock off another mountain from her list.

Good luck to everyone getting ready for the expeditions. I'll continue to post updates as the news warrants.