Will Gadd Makes First Ascent of Niagara Falls

Last week, acclaimed climber Will Gadd, along with Sarah Hueniken, made a daring first ascent of Niagara Falls, the massive waterfall that sits on the border of the U.S. and Canada in upstate New York. Gadd has hoped to keep his project secret and to reveal the accomplishment this week instead, but an inquisitive reporter spotted him scouting the route and broke the story early. The result has been a bit of a media frenzy over the accomplishment, which was no doubt spurred on by public interest in Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson's Dawn Wall ascent.

In an interview posted at National Geographic Adventure, Gadd says that while he has accomplished thousands of great ice climbs in his career, this one was special. While he did have the permission of the New York parks department to attempt the climb, Niagara has been off limits for a long time. That gave it a bit of a "forbidden fruit" element that he couldn't resist.

Gadd goes on to say that the idea for climbing the massive falls 51 meter (167 ft) falls came a year ago when the so-called "polar vortex" put much of the U.S. and Canada into a deep-freeze. The falls were frozen solid at that point, but knowing that it was illegal to make the climb, he decided to wait and go through the proper channels. Red Bull also approached him to sponsor the climb as well, which helped to open the doors.

In terms of the ice that he dealt with on the ascent, Gadd says that it was unlike anything else he'd every gone up before. Most of the time ice forms on a waterfall from the top down, but on Niagara it forms from the side. This is due to the amount of mist and spray that is generated from water plummeting over the top. The result of this unusual phenomenon is an uneven and irregular climbing surface that is very different from other ice climbs.

According to Gadd, Niagara offers "world-class ice climbing" but says he felt more pressure in getting the climb right in terms of doing it legally and safely than he did in actually completing the ascent. He sees this as an opportunity to potentially open the Niagara area for future climbs as well, and felt it was important to get it right for the climbing community.

The interview touches on a number of other topics as well, including the special gear that Will created to assist in the climb, why he is compelled to do "extreme" things, and why he isn't an adrenaline junkie. It is definitely a good read all around.

Congratulations to Will and Sarah on this impressive climb.

Video: EpicTV Presents the Best Climbs of 2014

2014 may be over, but that doesn't mean we can't still look back and reflect on some of the best accomplishments of the year that has passed. Our friends over at EpicTV have compiled a short video that highlights some of the best climbs of the year. It features some outstanding efforts on some very tough routes, with a highlight reel to show these impressive climbers doing their thing.

Video: Rock Climbing in Israel is Illegal, Meet the Man Trying to Change That

I wasn't aware that rock climbing was illegal in Israel, but thanks to this video from EpicTV we get to meet the man who is hoping to change that. His name is Ofer Blutrich and he is working to raise awareness within the climbing community of the prohibition of the sport in his country. He freely admits that he knows Israel has a lot of other problems that it is facing, but he is trying to convince authorities there that repealing the ban on climbing could be good for the tourist economy, particularly since there are some good spots to climb there. It is an interesting story, and there are plenty of great climbing shots in the video as well.

Video: The First Ascent of Peixe Porco (9a)

For more than two years climber Leopoldo Faria attempted to complete a project that he calls Peixe Porco, a tough route located near Sagres, Portugal. The climb is rated a 9a in difficulty, which translates to a 5.14d on the Yosemite Decimal Scale. In other words, it is an incredibly hard route that challenged Leopoldo for months. But on March 2, 2013 he was able to overcome it at last. The beautiful video below shows that complete climb, and gives us a brief glimpse of exactly why this is such an tough climb.

Peixe Porco 9a – first ascent from Hands Up Creations on Vimeo.

Video: North America's Fifty Classic Climbs Episode 2 - Ancient Art

The second episode of the new climbing series from EpicTV entitled North America's Fifty Classic Climbs is now available, and this time we're following Mark and Janelle Smiley as they go up Ancient Art, 4-pitch climb that is rated a 5.1 difficulty. Located near Moab, Utah, this climb has an amazing finish, which you'll see in the video. The view from the top looks amazing, and the path to get there is not for the faint of heart.

Video: Archival Footage From the 1970 Ascent of the Dawn Wall

Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson's ascent of the Dawn Wall is by far the biggest climbing story in years, captivating audiences across the globe and garnering attention from the mainstream media. But the first ascent of that massive rock face took place back in 1970, when Warren Harding and Dean Caldwell climbed it for the first time. The video below features some amazing archival footage from that expedition, which was incredibly difficult in its own right.

How did the two climbs differ? Tommy and Kevin free climbed the Wall, which means they went up using just their own physical skills and considerable climbing talents. The ropes and other protection were in place to prevent them from falling, but didn't aid their ascent in any way. This is a much more difficult way to climb, and many thought it was simply impossible to go up the Dawn Wall in that fashion.

For a look back on the climbing scene from 45 years ago, check out this amazing clip. And big thanks to the Adventure Journal for sharing it with us.

Video: Free Soloing Table Mountain in South Africa with Matt Bush

This video takes us to South Africa to follow free soloist Matt Bush as he climbs some of the iconic rock faces of Table Mountain in Cape Town. EpicTV calls Matt the "Alex Honnold of South Africa," and it's hard to argue with that moniker. Over the past few years, Matt has been free-soloing some of the toughest routes in his home country, and he is now working on a film project to document the amazing climbing opportunities that exist there.

This video will on reaffirm South Africa's reputation for being one of the best destinations for adventure on the entire planet.

Drop-Dead Gorgeous Photos From the Dawn Wall

Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson's Dawn Wall project may be over, but we'll be continuing to hear about it for some time to come. Case in point, Outside Online has posted some amazing photos from the climb that have to be seen to be believed. While Tommy and Kevin struggle for two and a half weeks with the climb, they were shadowed by some of the best climbing photographers in the business, and the results were spectacular. Check out the entire photo gallery, with 14 stunning images, by clicking here.

And should you, for some reason, think that this expedition won't leave a lasting impact on the climbing world, check out this article from Nat Geo Adventure. It gives us five reasons why the Dawn Wall Ascent has pushed climbing forward. Written by climber Andrew Bisharat, the article helps to put Tommy and Kevin's accomplishment further into perspective.

Video: Climbers Weigh in on the Dawn Wall Climb

Now that the Dawn Wall climb is officially complete, EpicTV has spoken to a few other climbers to get their take on Tommy Caldwell and his relentless efforts to scale the toughest big wall on the planet. The video below provides some insight and perspective on that accomplishment, with top climbers sharing their thoughts.

Mission Accomplished on the Dawn Wall!

The biggest news in the world of outdoor adventure today is without a doubt the successful completion of the Dawn Wall climb by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson. The duo reached the summit of El Capitan at 3:25 PM local time yesterday after spending 19 days on what many have called the most difficult climbing route in the world.

The Dawn Wall – so named because it is the first granite face to catch the morning sun – is a massive chunk of rock that stands 3000 feet (900 meters) in height. It has been climbed previously of course, but all other ascents were aid climbs which use ropes, pitons, and ascenders to move up. Caldwell and Jorgeson are the first to do it using only their own physical abilities. Their ropes and protection were only place to prevent them from falling.

For the two men, this is the end of a quest that started more than eight years ago. Scouting the Dawn Wall and trying every pitch took many days and previous attempts fell short of the goal. This year, Tommy and Kevin were determined to get to the top, and although it wasn't easy, they were able to accomplish something that many thought was impossible.

After finishing the climb yesterday Jorgeson said “I hope it inspires people to find their own Dawn Wall, if you will. We’ve been working on this thing a long time, slowly and surely. I think everyone has their own secret Dawn Wall to complete one day, and maybe they can put this project in their own context.”

When they finished yesterday a crowd of well wishers were on hand to greet them. The Dawn Wall climb has captivated the world over the past few weeks, with even non-climbers getting pulled into the drama. The final pitches of the ascent were even streamed live on television and the Internet, with millions watching as Tommy and Kevin made history.

Neither man is ready to discuss what projects are next on their schedule, nor should they. They have just complete an amazingly difficult expedition, and it is time to rest, reflect, and recovery. I'm sure we'll be hearing a lot more about their efforts in the days ahead, but for now these two men should simply experience the moment.

Congratulations to Tommy and Kevin on an amazing job, and for inspiring all of us to pursue our dreams.

Video: Hielo Y Fuego - Ice and Fire in Patagonia

For those of you who simply can't get enough adventure in Patagonia (and who can blame you!), we have a new video series that launched today at EpicTV entitled Hielo Y Fuego. In this first episode, Italian climbers Luca Schiera and Matteo della Bordella join Swiss mountaineer Silvan Schüpbach on an expedition to open new routes in the region. Their first goal? An 1800 meter (5905 ft) ascent of Aguja de la Silla over  mixed terrain.

If this first episode is any indication, this new series is going to be a good one to follow. Lots of great climbing and stunning scenery. Enjoy!

Video: Tommy Caldwell Talks Dawn Wall with EpicTV

Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson's climb of the Dawn Wall is one of the biggest stories in the world right now – in or out of climbing. The two men are incredibly close to wrapping up what many have called the toughest climb in the world, and by this time tomorrow they may have found success at last. Prior to starting this expedition, Tommy sat down with the Climbing Daily crew from EpicTV and talked to them about the challenge of the Dawn Wall, which he has been exploring for more than eight years. That interview can be found in the video below, which also includes some amazing shots from Yosemite as well.

Update From The Dawn Wall: Final Push to the Top Begins

The end is in sight for Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Joregson. The two men have been free climbing the Dawn Wall in Yosemite National Park for more than two weeks, and now with the most difficult pitches behind them, they are nearing the top. In fact, barring any unforeseen issues, they are expected to finish tonight, completing one of the toughest climbs in history, on a route that is considered the most challenging on the planet.

The two men started the climb back on December 27th, and have been methodically working their way up the 3000 foot (900 meter) rock face on El Capitan ever since. The Dawn Wall – so named because it catches the first light of the sun on El Cap each morning – has never been free climbed before, which means Caldwell and Jorgeson are making the ascent using only their physical abilities and considerable climbing skills. The ropes and protection that are in place are only there to prevent them from falling, but are not helping them move up in any way.

The most difficult pitches are number 15 and 16, which Caldwell was able to overcome more than a week and a half ago. But his partner struggled for seven days on pitch 15, falling more than 11 times. For awhile it looked like Jorgeson might not be able to get past that section, but this past weekend he completed the pitch at last, and scurried up 16 with very little difficulty. This allowed him to rejoin Caldwell, and the pair are now finishing off the final sections, none of which are as remotely difficult as anything they have already passed.

The men have been climbing at night, when the rock allows their hands and feet to grip the surface better. Tonight is expected to be their final evening on the wall. Most estimates indicate that they should complete the climb sometime late Wednesday or early Thursday morning. That means we're about to see climbing history be made. This epic expedition to climb the hardest big wall on the planet is about to wrap up, and even the non-climbing world has been sucked into the experience.

Stay tuned for more updates. I expect to have good news to report tomorrow morning.

Video: Day 14 on the Dawn Wall - Major Success!

As climbers Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson continue their efforts to climb the incredibly difficult Dawn Wall in Yosemite, we all watch with baited breath in anticipation of them finally completing the ascent. This video comes from a few days back, when Kevin was finally able to push his way past the incredible difficult 15th pitch, which had stymied him for a week. The clip not only gives us insights on to what he was thinking, it also gives us a very close look at the wall itself. This video will give you even more appreciation for what these two men are doing.

Video: A Line Across The Sky - Climbing in Patagonia with Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell

We have another outstanding climbing video today, in a setting that is amongst the very best in the entire world. This short film takes us to Patagonia with Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold, as they attempt to complete the first Fitz Traverse - a four-mile (6.4 km) long trek that includes 13,000 feet (3962 meter) of vertical gain that crosses Cerro Fitz Roy and its six satellite peaks. A perfect weather window gave Tommy and Alex the opportunity to complete this project, which took five days to wrap up. The expedition will be fully documented in an up coming movie from Sender Films, but this video gives us our first glimpse at what they faced, and overcame, on this incredibly tough route.

Video: North America's Fifty Classic Climbs - Episode 1: Fine Jade (5.11a)

Our friends over at EpicTV have just launched a promising looking new series of videos that will give viewers a glimpse of the North America's 50 Classic Climbs. The series will feature climbers Mark and Janelle Smiley, as they attempt to climb each of the routes in that classic book. These videos will allow us to come along for the ride.

In episode one, Mark and Janelle head to Utah to climb a sandstone tower on a 5.11a route called Fine Jade. While not an incredibly long, or difficult, climb, it does provide some solid challenges to get them started, while also providing some outstanding views of the surrounding landscapes as well.

This looks like it could be a fun new series, so be sure to check out future episodes here.

Update From The Dawn Wall: Climbers Above Hardest Pitches, Success Still Not Assured

The efforts of rock climbers Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson on the Dawn Wall in Yosemite continue to garner lots of attention within the climbing community, as well as beyond. The two men launched their bid to climb what many consider the toughest route in the world back on December 27, and more than two weeks later, they're still making their way up El Capitan's most daunting face. Over the weekend, the duo made headway, and although they are now past the most difficult pitches, they still have some challenges ahead.

For those that don't know, the Dawn Wall is so named because it faces east and is the first section of El Cap to receive light in the morning. The 3000-foot (900 meter) granite face was first climbed by Warren Harding and Dean Caldwell (no relation to Tommy) back in 1970. But that ascent was made with the use of ropes and protection to get to the top. Even with aid, the duo still struggled to compete the route, even refusing a rescue at one point. What Tommy and Kevin are attempting to do is on a completely different level however, as they are free climbing the wall. That means they're only using ropes and protection to arrest their fall, but are making the ascent completely under their own power, using nothing more than than their physical strength and considerable climbing skills.

Most experts indicate that the 15th and 16th pitches are the two toughest on the entire route, which consists of 30 pitches over all. Last week, Caldwell was able to get past both of those challenges, and seemed poised to scamper up the rest of the route, reaching the top as early as this past weekend. Meanwhile, Kevin struggled for seven days on the 15th pitch, falling 11 times over that period. As the skin on his fingers wore thin, it started to look like he might not be able to get past those daunting sections. Over the weekend however, he managed to finish the 15th pitch at last, and his momentum even carried up the 16th with little trouble as well. His partner watched on with interest, offering encouragement, and cheering the success of his friend.

Now, the two men are reunited on the Dawn Wall, and will continue upwards together. They have passed what most consider the most difficult part of the climb, and are now getting ready to push towards the top. They still have some considerable obstacles to overcome, but considering their talent, nothing that remains on the route should be insurmountable. That said, until they finish the last pitch, success it still not assured.

This is the biggest climb in the world, and many observers have been transfixed by the events that are unfolding in Yosemite. Even non-climbers are watching with anticipation to see if Tommy and Kevin can complete the route. In a few days time, we should know more.

Video: Push Day on the Dawn Wall

Do you wonder what it is like for Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson, the two men who are currently attempting to climb the Dawn Wall in Yosemite? If so, than take a look at this video. It was shot on Day 8 of their climb (they're currently on Day 14), and it gives you a good look at just how massive and difficult this 3000 foot (900 meter) rock face truly is. The Dawn Wall has been called the most difficult rock climb in the world, and these two men have been planning the project for five years, and have attempted it a couple of times in the past. With a  little luck, they'll wrap it up this weekend, successfully reaching the top of El Capitan at long last.

The Push Day 08 from Rock & Ice on Vimeo.

Video: Tommy Caldwell and the Dawn Wall

If you've been keeping up with what has been going on in the world of big wall climbing this week, you're probably already aware that Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson are attempting to free climb what many have called the hardest route in the world. The two men are now 13 days into the ascent of The Dawn Wall in Yosemite, which is a 3000-foot rock face on El Capitan. This is their third attempt on this project, and they are making better progress than ever before. It is now possible that they could complete the route this coming weekend.

The video below is a bonus clip from the film Valley Uprising, which takes a look at climbing culture in Yosemite. It features Caldwell talking about the importance of the Dawn Wall, and its place in the annals of rock climbing history. It seems a fitting clip to watch as we all wait for Tommy and Kevin to make history. If they are successful, it will be the first complete free climb of the route. Good luck boys!

Video: Tommy Caldwell Climbs the Four Hardest Routest at The Monastery in a Single Day!

Tommy Caldwell is one of the best climbers working the rock today. He proves that once again in this video, in which he takes on four of the hardest climbs at The Monastery in Colorado in a single day. Each of these routes is incredibly challenging in their own right, but doing all of them in one day only adds to the difficulty. Caldwell uses the experience to help prepare him for his ultimate project – climbing the Dawn Wall on El Capitan, a project he has been working on for five years.

Tommy Caldwell Climbs The Four Hardest Routes at the Monastery, In a Day!!! from BlueWater Ropes on Vimeo.