Forbes Interviews Ueli Steck

It isn't often that a mountaineer gets mainstream press from a source like Forbes, but then again, not every mountaineer is Ueli Steck. The magazine recently conducted a nice interview with the "Swiss Machine," which you can read in its entirety here.

In the interview, Ueli – who is one of the 2015 National Geographic Adventurers of the Year – discusses his admiration for Reinhold Messner, how he compartmentalizes fear on his climbs, and his now legendary solo-summit of Annapurna. He also talks about his approach to speed-climbing in the Alps – comparing those efforts to a game – and his thoughts on the events that went down on Everest this past spring, including the use of helicopters to reach Camp 2.

Perhaps the most interesting part of the interview is in Ueli's discussion of his post-Annapurna plans. He says that immediately following that climb, he felt no motivations what so ever, and he didn't even do much climbing or training last winter at all. He felt like he had achieved the ultimate climb he had been searching for, he was left rudderless afterwards, searching for a new challenge. Fortunately he seems to have found one, although he doesn't say exactly what that challenge will be. It will involve Everest however, although we'll have to be patient to see what he has planned.

As one of the highest profile mountaineers in the world, Ueli always seems to be working on some interesting projects. He has been rather quiet for awhile now, so I suspect he's been working out the logistics of his next big expedition. Perhaps he'll be heading back to the Himalaya in the spring. Considering the events that took place on Everest in 2013 when he, Simone Moro, and Jonathan Griffith got into a very public brawl with the Sherpas, it would be good to see him go back. At the time, a lot of harsh words were said, but it seems that the hard feelings have mellowed some.

To read more of Ueli's thoughts on these topics, and others, click here.

Winter Climbs 2014: ExWeb Talks To Simone Moro About His Plans

As the winter climbing season inches closer, there is more and more intrigue surrounding the plans of Italian climber Simone Moro. As a veteran climber who has put up first winter ascents on three Himalayan peaks, it is not unusual for Moro to be planning a big climb during the coldest, harshest season of the year. But this year Simone is keeping his cards close to the vest, and has not yet revealed his plans. We do know however, that he does not intend to attempt Nanga Parbat or K2, the only two remaining 8000 meter peaks to be climbed in winter. Recently, ExWeb caught up with Moro, as he shared some thoughts on the expeditions that will be taking place beginning in just a few weeks.

In the interview, Simone talks about the re-emergence of winter expeditions on the big peaks, and the Polish squads returning to prominence in that area. ExWeb credits Moro for reinvigorating winter climbs, but as you would expect, Simone says that he is happy to see others join him on the big mountain quests. He also reminds the interviewer that while he isn't going to K2 or Nanga Parbat, he still has some big plans for the winter ahead.

One of Simone's favorite climbing partners is Denis Urubko, who will be focused on K2 this winter. When asked why Moro did not join his old friend, he reiterated the now often-shared story about his wife having a bad dream about him dying on K2. She asked him not to climb that mountain in the winter, and he agreed. So it would seem that if K2 is to be summited during the harshest season of all, it will be by someone other than Simone.

Other topics that are discussed in the interview include Moro's thoughts on competition in high altitude mountaineering, what approach he would take to climbing K2 in the winter, his ideal team size for winter expedition, and some of the logistical differences between climbing in the winter vs. the summer. He also shares some thoughts on avoiding frostbite at high altitude, the chances of future shutdowns like the one on Everest this past spring, and much more.

If you're interested in high altitude mountaineering, particularly in the winter, than this is a good interview from a man who is extremely experienced in both areas. Simone is one of the best mountaineers in the business, and it will be interesting to hear about his winter plans this season. He says those plans remain confidential, so for now we'll jus have to wait. I expect we'll hear something definitive in the next few weeks, and then we'll be following Moro's efforts throughout the expedition, no matter where it takes him.

ExWeb Interviews Steve Jones of Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions

With the 2014 Antarctic season quickly approaching, it will soon be time to ramp up coverage of the men and women who will be skiing to the South Pole this year, or exploring some other little known region of Antarctica. Ahead of the start of that busy period on the frozen continent, ExWeb has posted an interesting interview with Steve Jones, one of the main points of contact for expeditions at Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions (ALE) about the rules and regulations for traveling at the bottom of the world.

In the interview, Jones addresses a number of topics, including the use of drones in the Antarctic, the requirements for carrying not one, but two, satellite phones, and why other replacement devices won't always suffice. He also talks about the challenges that skiers face on their way to the South Pole, as their gear breaks down and deteriorates over time – something that hasn't changed in a hundred years, when the first expeditions to the Pole were finally completed.

Jones, who is a veteran Base Camp manager and guide in the Antarctica, also offers some good tips for those considering an expedition to the world's coldest, windiest, driest, and highest desert. He stresses the importance of planning, working closely with ALE, and the challenges of adapting to fluid situations as things inevitably go wrong. Steve also offers tips on getting funded, and how ALE can provide advice and even gear for those who need it.

Finally, the ALE point man also talks about the company's new trip to Mt. Sidley, the tallest volcano in Antarctica. This was the point of another story earlier int he week, and you can find out more about it here.

As the fall climbing season in the Himalaya comes to an end, the focus of the adventure world will turn to Antarctica once again. It will be interesting to see how many people will be embarking on expeditions to the South Pole this year, and if there will be any unique, unusual stories to tell.

Audio Interview: The Adventure Magazine Interviews Levison Wood

A few weeks back I gave a couple of plugs to a new radio program entitled The Adventure Magazine with Monroe and Gigi. Each week, it is hosted by my friend Julian Monroe Fisher, and his wife Gigi. They talk about all manner of topics, including exploration, gear, adventure travel, and so much more. Each week, they also have an interview with a prominent guest, which gives listeners an opportunity to learn about an expedition or adventurer first hand. This week, they interviewed Levison Wood of Walking the Nile fame. As you probably know, Lev wrapped up his attempt to walk the entire length of the Nile River a few weeks back, and while he was in Cairo, he took some time to talk with Monroe and Gigi. In the interview, which you can listen to below, he talks about the journey, his missing miles in South Sudan, the death of Matthew Powers, and much more. Definitely a good interview, and if you want to hear more from The Adventure Magazine, all of the back episodes are available on the show's website.

Reinhold Messner Interviewed on the Eve of his 70th Birthday

German journalist Stefan Nestler, who always does an excellent job of covering the world of mountaineering and other outdoor sports, has interviewed Reinhold Messner on the eve of his 70th birthday. The Italian climbing legend, who is the first to climb all 14 8000-meter peaks, amongst a number of other feats, will reach that milestone tomorrow, and indications are that he is both philosophical and pragmatic about his advancing years.

When asked how he'll celebrate his birthday, Messner says he'll have a private party with close friends, where he'll invite them to bivouac with him under the stars one last time. He says it will be the last night that he spends in a sleeping back outside, which is a surprise for a man who has spent a lot of nights outside over the course of his life.

Nestler asks Messner about his level of happiness at this point in his life, how he spends his time in his private castle, and what his goals are for the next decade of his life. To that Messner says he'll concentrate on his mountaineering museum, ensuring that it has a lasting legacy beyond his lifetime, and that he'd like to work on some films, in addition to his farms.

Perhaps more importantly, Reinhold discusses his thoughts on Carlos Soria still climbing 8000 meter peaks at the age of 75, how the events on Everest this past spring will impact climbing there, and his advice for young mountaineers heading to the mountains today. He closes the interview by discussing the state of his own personal climbing ambitions, saying that he still routinely goes above 6000 meters (19,685 feet), and actually feels better at that altitude than he does in normal life. He says that might serve as incentive for him to visit Nepal more regularly over the next decade, as the altitude seems to make him feel better. He is quick to point out however, that he has no intention of climbing the big mountains again, adding "I don't want to die in the mountains."

This is another intriguing and insightful interview with Messner, who is always an interesting guy. I like that he doesn't hold back on his thoughts and opinions, and is always happy to share his perspectives. At the age of 70, clearly his best days of climbing are behind him. But I'd venture to guess he could still teach today's mountaineers a thing or two, and many of them would not be where they are today if it weren't for Messner breaking trail for them. On this milestone birthday, I salute his accomplishments. Happy birthday Reinhold!